KIEREN: "NO ONE AROUND AND A LITTLE BIT OF DANGER"
Words: Kieren Perrow Photos: Andrew Shield/WPS
There were some solid waves. Probably the biggest barrels I have had in a long time! I've been keeping my eye on this spot for a few years but it rarely breaks, so to get there (an hour's drive North) and see these huge caverns grinding was pretty excitin
This was pretty much what I saw when I arrived, nice view. There were a handful of pro junior groms out and they were loving it! The wind pretty much stayed offshore all day and the tide just kept getting better, but the rip was torture, dragging down to
It felt like I was in Hawaii! I was so pumped, haven't had adrenaline like this for a while. This was in my second surf. I was the only one out. The groms were too busy getting lunch or something.
Second surf as well, had to get my short arm on. Just picked up my new Rhythm (check out rhythmlivin.com) suits and I was cooking in my steamer first surf
A day to remember ... this is what I love so much as a surfer; big barrels, no-one around, and a little bit of danger!
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